A Beginner's Guide to el Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) – More than a scene from a 007 film

1. Day of the Dead is Not Halloween

It may be easy to confuse the two events: both are celebrated at the same-ish time of year, involve ghoulish costumes and gothic themes from the grave, but that is where the similarities end.

'El Dia de los Muertos', a festival mash-up of a 3000 year old Aztec, Mesoamerican tradition blended with 16th century Spanish Catholicism, is a celebration of life and death and all things in between.

Celebrated throughout Mexico, especially in central and southern regions (although Latin American people in other countries honour this festival as well), el Dia de los Muertos is a special moment in time when families come together to pause, remember and honour their loved ones passed over and welcome them home in their spiritual form.

2. Mark your calendar for the 31st October through to the 2nd November

This time period is important. It is believed that the souls of the dead have a 24-hour window to reunite with the living.

The 1st of November is known as ‘Children’s Day’ (Dia de los Angelitos), which is when the spirits of the young are thought to return to their families while the 2nd of November is the official ‘el Dia de los Muertos’.

In preparation for the festival, homes and are carefully cleaned, altars are erected, sugar skulls in all their iterations appear in the market places alongside freshly baked loaves of ‘Pan de Muerto'.

Families also tend to the tombs of their loved ones, tidying and decorating them, before they gather for an all-nighter in the cemetery or congregate inside their homes around their 'ofrenda' (see below).

Dia de los Muertos is a mix of emotions, but never macabre.

Quiet contemplation, tears, laughter, dancing, group hugs and silent prayers accompany family reunions with the other side while mariachi bands blast brassy dirges into the copal enriched air and crazy fireworks (said to awaken the souls and scare off evil spirits) fly over head.

Local cemeteries literally come alive on the evening of 1st November.

Wander into a local panteon and celebration of the most spiritual kind is underway. Here you will see families, from the very young to the septuagenarian, gathered over their loved one's graves, seated on fold-out chairs sharing mezcal and barbecued meats. Candles light up the freshly turned Earth (typical gravesites are mounds of dirt with a modest tomb), casting a soft glow over faces while adding another worldly element to the taco vendors and hot chocolate stalls that bustle outside the cemetery gates. It is not uncommon for families to camp out for the the entire night - and sustenance, in all its forms, is a welcome reprieve.

Mariachi bands provide the official soundtrack to el Dia de los Muertos

Note, despite the upbeat mood of this spiritual reunion, this is not the time to go crazy with face paint or play 'La Catrina' dress-ups. The grand party, the event that most outsiders connect with el Dia de los Muertos, is reserved for the following night.

3. It’s all about the ‘Ofrenda’ (the offering)

An traditional ofrenda (offering) for el Dia de los Muertos, in Mitla, Oaxaca.

The ofrenda is a quintessential element of el Dia de los Muertos.

Altars are created in personal homes, in public spaces, and are placed on gravesites. They are lovingly constructed to honour and remember ancestors and relatives passed over as well as serve as a spiritual GPS, guiding spirits back to the Earthly plane for the 24-hour reunion period.

Every element placed on the altar has a special symbolic and spiritual meaning behind it as well as a direct connection to the family’s dearly departed.

Favourite foods and beverages of the dearly departed are always placed on altars for the el Dia de los Muertos

Essential ofrenda items include:

Flowers

• Cempacuchil (marigolds) - growing wild throughout Mexico, and beloved by the Aztecs, these blooms represent the sun as well as life and death, and create a sweet scent irresistible to spirits;

• Flor de nube, delicate white flowers named after clouds are a favourite in Oaxaca as are

• Flor cresta de gallo, red cellulose brain-like blooms.

An archway

• Set at the highest point of the altar and constructed from cempacuchil or sugar cane stalks. The archway serves as the official doorway between the other world and the earthly plane.

Photographs of the dearly departed

• Always framed and lovingly placed on the upper levels of the altar

Candles

• Placed strategically in different positions on the altar to represent the four cardinal directions and act as a beacon of light to guide spirits home.

Water

• Travelling between worlds is thirsty work, and water eases a soul’s passage home.

Favourite foods and beverages of the departed

• All ofrendas are customised according to the dead family member’s personal preferences. If Grandmother loved Coca Cola, then a bottle is placed upon the altar along with her favourite food. If Aunty enjoyed beer, than a bottle of cerveza is opened in her memory. And if Dad loved to smoke Cubans, you guessed it, a pack of cigars goes onto the altar.

• Mole negro and endless tamales in infinite flavours are traditional festival foods, especially in Oaxaca. These dishes are a true labour of love, taking days to prepare and cook. Being other-worldy food, they taste heavenly too!

A cross

• Dia de los Muertos is a blend of Catholicism and ancient tradition and no altar is complete without a symbol of crucifixion.

Pan de Muerto

• The official 'Day of Dead' bread, elaborately baked, encrusted with the photos of the departed, or sweet faces from beyond the grave.

Fruit, nuts and seeds

• For spiritual snack-time and sustenance.

Personal possessions

• Options are endless and customised to the dearly departed. For example, if a family member was a musician in their Earthly existence, their favourite instrument will be placed upon the altar or if the altar is honouring a child, their special toys are added

Salt

• A deeply purifying element, salt is said to ward off evil spirits and cleanse the altar.

Papel picado

• The colourful and celebratory cutout paper used to decorate altars, alleyways and basically everywhere around town during the festival.

Calaverita de Azucar (Sugar Skulls)

• Made from sweet stuff and icing. But did you know that craniums can also be made in chocolate?

• Cool but curious fact, in ancient times, real skulls were used on the ofrenda.

Copal

• Mexican incense made from the resinous timber that grows locally in Mexico.

4. The ‘Day of the Dead’ street parade is not traditional to Mexico City

A scene from the Day of the Dead Steet Parade, Etla, Oaxaca (not Mexico City). This is where an authentic Day of Dead street party can be experienced.

We can thank James Bond (and the animation Coco) for popularising this ancient festival, but the street parade which takes over city streets at the conclusion of Dia de los Muertos is not culturally speaking a ‘Mexico City’ thing. This ritual belongs to central and southern states.

Since the release of ‘Spectre’ in 2015, a 'Day of the Dead' parade, featuring the colourful costumes and props from the film, now dominates city streets and the zocolo in the historical downtown of Mexico City.

5. ‘La Catrina’ is the official festival mascot

A local dressed in La Catrina costume outside Santo Domingo Church, Oaxaca.

‘Day of the Dead’ without ‘La Catrina’ is like Sonny sans Cher, Hans going solo and a burger minus fries.

Who is she?

Death does not discriminate.

'La Catrina' was created by the early 1900’s Mexican satirical printer and artist Jose Guadalupe Posada. She is an upper class skeleton who dons Victorian clothing and a grand hat. No matter how much money one has, how fancy one’s clothes and possession are – we all eventually wind up at the same destination and 'knock, knock, knocking on heaven’s door.'

La Catrina’s symbolic roots run deep and wide, into the Aztec and Mayan underworld and beyond, and as such, realms have been written on her. She is without a doubt one of the most famous icons of Mexico.

La Catrina reminds us to live life and...

6. Party like its…..

The street parade that fills the town streets and squares - Oaxaca, Mexico. Large paper maiche sculptures, known as Cartoneria always feature in the parade.

Mezcal is a the drink of choice for a Oaxaca Day of the Dead Street Party. A scene from Etla, Oaxaca, Mexico.

Mexican people love to party (and did I mention fireworks). They love their fireworks.

The ‘Day of the Dead’ festival culminates with the mother of all celebrations: a parade that takes over city streets and town squares intoxicating intoxicated individuals with a contagious celebration and conviviality.

This is the time when locals and visitors alike can go truly loco and pull out all stops in the make-up and dress-up department, painting their faces to reassemble calaveras, La Catrinas and characters from beyond the grave. Cartonerias, a stalwart of many a Mexican celebration, the large (and somewhat unnerving), painted paper-maiche sculptures of skeletons, animals and people also make an appearance.

Day of the Dead dress-ups are all about La Catrina.

During El Dia de Los Muertos, the streets of Oaxaca come alive with parades.

Local Children prepare for a street parade in Oaxaca for Dia de Los Angelitos.

Where to Experience el Dia de Los Muertos

Mexico naturally.

For a truly spiritual, authentic and traditional 'Day of the Dead' experience to remember for a life time- make your way down to Oaxaca, Patzcuaro or Chiapas. Each region has it's own unique spin on how to honour and celebrate this important festival.

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Have you ever experienced el Dia de Los Muertos?

What were your thoughts and impressions?

Or maybe you are dying to go?

Leave a comment here.

Stay tuned. I will be writing more about this festival from my own personal experience and be sharing a recipe.

x Kristy